Ski Touring on the Tasman Glacier
The plan was to do a ski tour on the Tasman Glacier after a wild trip up to the Liverpool Hut. Soon we were driving toward Mount Cook Village for a 4 day ski tour based out of the Kelman Hut. Our plan was to spend our time snowboarding around in hopes that the snow would be great. This would be my forth time touring around the area so by know I was quite familiar with the area.
Driving to Mount Cook Village
Ben and I had a night of rest in Wanaka after our previous 5 days up in the Matukituki Valley. We had made it out of the valley just in time as we woke up in Wanaka with snow almost to the valley floor. Driving over Linda Pass we could see a good amount of new snow had fallen in the highlands.
We rallied our Toyota Prius through the Mackenzie Country towards Mount Cook Village. The clouds were dark and heavy but we could see it was still snowing in the highlands.
Preparing to head up the Tasman Glacier
Once driving to Mount Cook village we stayed at the Unwin Lodge just outside of town. We wanted to be at the heli pad early in the morning so we would be the first group flying up. That night we got our gear ready to go and were off to sleep before sunset.
We woke up to clear skies well before sunrise. The whole area was coated in new snow and we had 15 cms in the parking lot alone. Things were looking promising and winds were nonexistent.
As the sun rose and the alpenglow started we threw our gear in the car. The crux of the morning wasn’t waking up, it was rallying the Prius out of the parking lot. Soon we were meeting up with Louie and Julia and were waiting for Mount Cook Heli to open its doors.
Heading up the Tasman Glacier
When the doors opened we were still the only group so we filled out the paperwork and weighed our gear. Soon enough we were on the first flight leaving towards the Tasman Glacier.
We quickly lifted off and were looking at a snow covered Tasman Valley. The views were world class quickly making the 30 kilometer trip onto the upper Tasman Glacier.
As we were making our way up we got a clean view of Mount Cook and the Caroline face. We were flying near the backbone of the Southern Alps flying at the base of New Zealand’s highest peak.
Soon we were wrapping around to the upper Tasman Glacier. This would be our playing ground for the next four days. We tried to look for wind loading and any signs of avalanche conditions but there was nothing to be seen.
The helicopter took us to the top of the Tasman col in the photo below. It would give us close access to the Kelman Hut and from there we would have numerous options of places to ski.
Landing on the Tasman Glacier
As the helicopter landed we carefully jumped out and unloaded our gear. We made sure to stay where we were as we made a line and took out our gear. Since it would be a 4 day trip and we didn’t have to hike in the gear we were loaded down with heavy food. Soon the helicopter was taking off and we were alone on the Tasman Glacier.
We had to go back and forth from our drop off point to the Kelman hut twice to drag in all our gear. It was a beautiful morning and as always the views were stunning.
At the Kelman hut we had to dig out the door before putting our stuff in the downstairs bedroom. After about 30 minutes it was time to start touring around with our first run down the main glacier.
Our First Day of Riding on the Tasman Glacier
As we started making our way down the Tasman the upper slopes were loaded with powder. It was Julia’s first turns in New Zealand and we laughed and joked about how fortunate she was. For years I had dreamed of this types of conditions and there we were.
Ski Touring up the Hochstetter Dome
Once at the bottom of the main glacier we had to come up with a plan of where to go next. From previous experience I knew the Hochstetter Dome was a great run so we decided to head that way.
Skinning up the lower Tasman Glacier we wrapped around the lower ice fall and started heading up the main ramp. It would minimize our exposure to crevasses and was a direct route.
Looking back we were amazed by how the glaciers clung to the steep faces. Everywhere you looked it was a world of ice and mountains.
Making our way towards the top we encountered wind effected snow. Though on the main summit ridge we decided against going to the true summit. Instead we dropped halfway down the glacier before skinning back to the hut.
Afternoon Around the Kelman Hut
After having a mid day lunch at the Kelman Hut we decided to head out again for a sunset tour. We stuck close to the hut with a ski tour of Almer Peak ridge before heading back to the hut.
The Kelman Hut is in one of the most beautiful location in all of New Zealand. Perched next to the glacier and hanging next to a massive cliff we were happy to stay in this massive 22 bunk mansion within the ice.
We took in the sunset as we came us with a plan for the next day. We knew the snow was good on certain aspects and we decided we would make the most out of it.
As the last lights faded away we were happy with our decision to head up and go ski touring on the Tasman Glacier. We had been fortunate that the conditions were so good and the next day we would head towards the Murchison Glacier. I had toured quite a bit in the area on my second trip up the Tasman and knew there was some great runs in that zone.
Day Two Ski Touring on the Murchison Glacier
The next morning we woke up and got our glacier gear dialed and packs filled with food. It was going to be a full day so we needed to be prepared.
Once ready we rode down the Tasman Glacier and with a long traverse we were standing on top of The Murchison Headwall. It felt a bit sketchy as it was a blind rollover dropping in and it was wind loaded. In the end it was decided that I would go first as I had been there before and knew where to go.
One at a time we dropped down the face and found excellent powder snow. If this was what there was to expect it was going to be a great day.
Once everyone had rode down the main headwall and we were back together we made our way down a little bit lower on the glacier. Looking back we saw that we hadn’t caused any sluff or avalanches. Things seemed stable.
For our second run we started skinning towards the sub summit of Mount Cooper. From the top we would be able to ride a nice steep face to a lower section of the glacier.
Snowboarding Mount Cooper
Once we climbed to the top we found the entrance ramp to the main face of Mt. Coopers west slopes. Behind us we could see our old tracks and at the base of the peak on the left side was the Kelman Hut.
We dropped into the upper headwall one at a time as the first few turns were steep. Once there we chatted about the technical route below us. We would have to make our way down on the skiers left side to wrap around the ice cliffs.
Soon we were past the crux and making turns onto the Murchison Glacier.
On the Murchison Glacier we stopped to melt water and come up with a plan. We decided to check out the Aida glacier on the left side of the photo below.
Heading up the Aida Glacier
Skinning up the Aida glacier we were happy to find great sheltered snow. We were quite a ways out from the hut and seeing a lot of what the area had to offer.
The day was getting short and we had a ways to get back so we stopped on the upper slopes. Looking back we had a far ways to go to make it up the Murchsion Headwall.
The snow was great on the low angle glacier. We rode what took hours to get up minutes to head down riding back onto the Murchison Glacier.
Returning to the Tasman Glacier
It was a long but scenic skin making our way back up the Murchison Glacier. Soon we passed Mount Cooper and our line now covered in shade.
We weaved around the ice fall cautious of potentially buried crevasses. They would look small until we got in the area and realize they were towering over us.
Looking back we could still see our turns on the Aida Glacier in the far distance. We had traveled quite a bit of ground that day.
Racing the darkness we followed our ski tracks bootpacking up the Murchison Headwall. There was one crux being a buried crevasse up top but we went one at a time. Soon we were enjoying the late day sunshine on Tasman Saddle.
It had been a long day we were happy to be so close to the hut. It felt great to be back in the sun and making our last push to the hut.
We made our way back to the hut as the sun dipped below the mountain. We could see new tracks in the area so we were alone anymore.
At the Kelman Hut we made a huge meal to get rid of our food and melted water. There was another group at the hut but it was still rather quiet compared to what it could be.
Being at the hut we would experiment with the food. Knowing we had pancakes and meat we would get creative and load up on calories.
Day 3 Doing Snowboard Laps on the Murchison Headwall
Knowing that the Murchison headwall was holding great snow Ben and I decided to head back. We would take a few laps before the sun affected the snow and utilize our boot pack.
The day before we had put tracks down the skiers right side so we focused on the left side.
Once Ben was at the bottom and in a safe location that I could see I dropped in. It was still great powder but it was a warm day so we needed to be cautious.
We used our bootpack from the day before heading back up. Within 45 minutes we were back on top and decided to ride the face one more time.
This time we would go close to an ice bulge as we could see it sticking out. The upper face was steep so it was good to have a spot to visualize.
The snow was still great but it was starting to be the heat of the day. We decided this would be our last lap in the area before heading back to the Tasman Glacier.
Back on the Tasman Glacier
We rode the Tasman Glacier down towards the bend before skinning up to point 2236. From here we had a great view of the lower Tasman Glacier and Mount Cook in the distance.
It’s stunning how the glaciers hang on the steep faces. We were looking at the backbone of the Southern Alps of New Zealand.
We took in the sunlight and the views with an unopposed view of the Minarets. A few years prior I was fortunate to be part of a crew that rode the opposite side of the face.
We rode a nice little face in the soft snow before heading onto the open glacier below riding one at a time.
Soon we were back on the Tasman Glacier and making our way towards the main lobe. During our run we had a clear view of the ramp we had climbed on Hochstetter Dome during the first day.
It was a wide open slope as we made our way down all the way onto the main glacier. That morning we were riding powder and now we found perfect corn conditions.
Our Last Skin up the Tasman Glacier
At the bottom it was time to skin back to the hut. The day had been great and we had covered quite the distance. It was really hot on the lower glacier as we started the climbing without any wind.
There were a bunch of tourist groups by now who were checking out the ice falls with guides. Every few minutes a plane would fly by with half of them dropping off groups.
It was our last night at the hut and it had turned out to be a great trip. The snow had been perfect as well as the weather. We made our way out to the balcony to take in the last sunset before calling it a night.
Day 4 Exiting the Tasman Glacier
It was another beautiful morning as we woke up. We used the hut radio to call in for a ski plane to pick us up on the lower glacier. Soon it was time to make our final descent 15 km to the end of the white ice.
Riding down the Tasman Glacier our backpacks were still full as we brought more food than needed. We had a 30 minute run in smooth corn before heading to the plane landing spot at the end of the white ice.
The plane would arrive at noon so we made sure to be there early. Arriving there a half hour early we made sure the landing spot was clear and our gear out of the way. We were surround with mountains rising 2000 meters above us.
Before long the ski plan landed on the snow and we were throwing our gear in. It was another busy day on the Glacier and we were happy with how we spent our time before the crews came in.
We were back in the air and heading down the Tasman glacier. By then the lower snow had melted out and it felt like we were heading back towards a desert.
It wasn’t long before we landed back at the airstrip. It was time to head up to Mount Cook Village and pay our hut fees. Once done we went to the Hemitage Hotel and sharing beers trying to come up with the next plan. Ben had 5 more days in New Zealand and we wanted to make the most out of it.
In Conclusion
It was another great trip up on the Tasman Glacier. We had great weather, conditions and a super fun crew. We had rode some super fun lines and made the most out of the time. Thank You Julia, Louie and Ben for a super smooth trip in Mount Cook National Park. We were off to go do the Milford Track.
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