The Trollfjord is a 2 kilometre long cut into Austvågøya Island in the Lofoten Islands of Northern Norway. In a place known for spectacular scenery this spot could be considered its gem. The only access to this area is via boat or kayaks with the shortest approach being over 10 kilometres. There is a 6.2 mile hiking trail during the summer but it is snow covered in winter.
This idea of this trip was brought up to me my Brett while we were at the Canuck Splitfest. He mentioned that he had been working in the Lofoten Islands and we should put together a ski traverse in April. After a few emails our group was Lea Hartl and Lorenzo Rieg from Austria, Bret Sharando, Jason Hummel and I. Our plan of traversing the Lofoten Islands fell apart with the weather forecast. It would be rainy day after day and it was not the type of conditions that were safe to pull off a Skiing and Kayaking trip. We needed to come up with plan B.
Plan B Trollfjord
Hanging out in the house we had many days to stare at the map and dream up trips. We were located just across the bay from Henningsvær a small island on the South side of Lofoten. I was blown away by the beauty of the landscape and all of the mountains climbing directly out of the sea.
Hanging out in the house we had many days to stare at the map and dream up trips. Finally the forecast called for 3 days of clear sky and we came up with the kayaking out to the Trollfjord. It would be a great way to see the area and hopefully find good ski runs along the way.
The project was backed by XX Lofoten Guides which provided Kayaks for us to access the area. The day before we filled up with gear and generally prepared for the trip. This was my first time really kayaking so I was quite nervous.
Going on a Split Kayak Trip
The next morning we were dropping off at with all of our gear and minutes away from heading out. The weather was a bit windy and cloudy but we were on the tail end of a front. I would be in a 2 person Kayak with Jason while the others would have there own.
It only took a few seconds then all of a sudden we were out in the sea and we were committed. Off in the distance I could see waves smashing on the shores the sea moved up and down. Before long we were out of the open sea and the water calmed down. Before long we in a valley surrounded by massive mountains.
Soon enough we found a suitable spot to set up camp arriving at the base of what seemed like good skiing. We needed to camp at the base of a stream so we had access to drinkable water. Behind us was a wall of mountains with enough lines to keep someone busy for a season.
After a few hours in the kayaks it was great to be back on solid ground. We were camping meters from the shore and it was nice to see such unique mountains coming out of the sea.
First Ski Tour in Lofoten
After an hour setting up camp it was time to go check out how the snow conditions were. It had been raining for the past week but we were optimistic and wanted to check out the views anyway.
Getting up into the high country the snow started to turn into breakable crust. With each step we would break through an inch of snow and have our skis under the surface. Though it was climbable it was horrendous snow for the skiers.
Though the snow was bad the views were stunning. Off to the south we could see mainland Norway and random Islands in the foreground.
Heading up to the col we had a stunning view to the west. We were in the middle of nowhere and could see the roads on the other side of the peninsula. There was an endless amount of great looking skiable terrain with no approach.
Skiing Down in Breakable Crust
The skiers had to be cautious not to hurt their knees as they made turns under the ice. It was one of those times that I was happy to be on a snowboard as I was able to stay somewhat on the snow surface.
Back in the valley we made it back to camp with a small creek crossing. It was great to get out but we were a bit disappointed in the ski conditions.
That afternoon we goofed around on the shoreline and enjoyed our view. Finally it wasn’t raining and we could actually see the potential of the area.
Day 2: Heading out to Trollfjord
We woke up to the sound of rain on our tents. The weather had changed over night and here we were about ready to kayak to Trollfjord. Getting back in the Kayaks the sea was relatively calm as we made our way south through the channel.
Making our way to the opening for Trollfjord the Hertigruten Norwegian cruise ship went by knocking up huge waves. Before long the waves settled and we paddled in. The terrain was stunning as we looked at massive rock cliffs rising out of the sea.
Making our way to the shoreline we drug the kayaks up to the shore and switched over to ski touring equipment. The weather had not improved but we had already gone this far and knew there was a hut up valley that we could check out and stay at.
We followed the small valley up in the alpine as sun started to set. Soon enough we arrived at the Trollfjordhytta just before dark and enjoyed the shelter from the storm outside.
Day 3: Trollfjord to Our Exit Point
The next morning the weather had improved quite a bit with the sun breaking through the clouds. We waited around for a while waiting for the weather to improve before heading out.
Exploring the Terrain around Trollfjord
The moment we saw sun on the slopes we decided to go check out the surrounding area. The mountains around Trollfjord were steep and since the snow was icy we wanted to find a mellow line that didn’t involve cliffs.
There was a lake just a kilometre from the hut so we decided to see how the snow was in the basin. The area had rocks everywhere and it was hard to tell if we were or weren’t on top of cliffs.
Traversing around a ridge we found an open area where we could take a lap. The snow ws still breakable ice so after a small lap would be sufficient.
Heading Back to the Kayaks
The weather would be changing in the night and it was time to getback to the kayaks. The Trollfjord area was beautiful but we were there in the worst snow conditions. The area would be great in powder conditions but it was not to be.
We rode back down the valley occasionally crossing the power lines from the dam at the base of the valley.
Snowboarding down the valley we had a great view of the Trollfjord itself. It was such a small channel bordered by massive slabs of rock. We bashed our way through the trees with the hopes of making it all the way back to the kayaks.
Soon enough we skied to the shores and got ready for the final stretch of our trip. it was time to switch back to dry suits and pack our gear back into the kayaks.
Back into the Sea and Towards Civilisation
Heading out of the fjord we could help but occasional look back. It was such a stunning location within the Lofoten Islands and we felt fortunate to have the area to ourselves. I could only imagine how nice the place would be in powder conditions.
Leaving the Trollfjord we were back in the main channel and heading 5 kilometres east where we would finish the trip. Each mountain we passed by had its own personality and we had just scratched the surface of the possibilities.
Arriving at the port we got our gear sorted and waited for our pick up. Soon enough the van showed up and we were soon driving back to the house. It had been a great 3 day trip and though we weren’t able to go with our original plan we had a unique adventure in the Lofoten Islands. If only the weather would improve as it wasn’t looking promising at all.
