Easton Glacier Route on Mount Baker - Where is Kyle Miller?

With the Weather forecasts looking promising for the weekend Scott and I decided to make a quick push for the Summit of Mt Baker at an elevation of 10781 ft. I had done the Colman Demming route before and wasn’t to impressed by the ride/traverse down so we decided to head for the Easton Glacier approach which had a much better fall line. During the winter/spring Easton is a snow park and is littered with snowmobiles so it keeps most climbers away.

Heading up the Railroad Grade Trail towards Mount Baker

Friday after work Scott and I met up in Seattle and drove out to the Scribner Meadows Easton Glacier access road. After packing up we were on the trail by around 7 p.m. Being late in the day the sun was quickly dropping to the west. With our gear on our packs we hiked about 1 mile on dirt and skinning about half a mile before we hit the trail head.

Our first view of our Route the South side of Baker

By now we were on a smooth ramp all the way to the summit of Mount Baker. With the last of the light we pushed our way up the Railroad Grade trail. With snowmobile tracks all around us it was obvious where to go. Before long we had open views of Park Butte and the Sisters Range to the west.

Scott skinning up to the Setting sun (the tracks are from Snowmobiles

With a few minutes of light left we made our way towards the last rock cropping. Being at around 6,400 feet anything higher would be glacier. It would be the perfect place to start from the next day. It would be a direct ascent and decent of the Easton Glacier.

Scott got out the tent and as we started putting it together we noticed we were missing a pole. This made no sense because we had both of the poles minutes earlier. After looking for a while we made a make shit bivy. Using our ski poles and the one pole we were able to have a spot to sleep for the night. While far from perfect it worked for the night.

Day 2 Climbing the Easton Glacier up Mount Baker

It turns out the pole must have gotten been kicked while putting up camp. With some momentum it slid down the ridge and off a cornice. Soon enough it stopped in a ravine about 100 feet down. Finally when the sun came up we were able to spot it and we had a tent again.

Our camping spot right off the Easton Glacier — The next morning we got up made some breakfast and started searching for the missing pole.

We roped up around 7’500 feet after seeing evidence of Crevasse’s on our path. Before long we were crossing the occasional snow bridge. By around 10 A.M. the snowmobiles were out on the Easton Glacier and all over the place. At one point I was crossing a snow bridge when a snowmobile charged by 10 feet away.

Ski touring up the Easton Glacier — A rather big Crevasse we had to cross

Making it up to the summit crater we decided to unrope for the Roman Headwall. In front of us we could see the steam vents of the Sherman Crater. Soon enough we could smell the sulfur reminding us that we were on an active volcano.

Making our way up to the Sherman Crater after climbing the Easton Glacier — Skinning up to the crater

Climbing up the Roman Headwall to the Summit of Mount Baker

Soon enough it was time to switch from skinning to bootpacking. For the last 1,000 feet of the Easton Glacier we were on the Roman Headwall. A step at a time we traversed clear of crevasses. By now a thick maritime set of clouds was overtaking the area below.

Climbing up the Roman Headwall after climbing the Easton Glacier — Scott boot packing up the Headwall

Soon we were taking our final steps up to the summit of Mount Baker. The Easton Glacier had been both straight foreword and non technical. Hiking up with Sherman Peak in the distance soon we would be arriving at the high point of the North Cascades.

Taking the last steps to the summit of Mount Baker — Then myself doing the final push to summit with Sherman Peak in the background.

When we reached the summit there was no wind. Though there were clouds to the south to the east we could still see mountains below. Hanging around on top of Mount Baker we hung out and slowly transitioned. The snow was still a bit to firm to ski so we needed to wait a bit. Hopefully within the next hour it would soften to perfect and edgeable corn.

Standing on the summit of Mount Baker — The Standard summit shot

While resting we had a clear view to the east. We could see down the Park Glacier all the way to the lower slopes of Mount Shuksan. In between we had a clear view of the terrain covered by the Watson Traverse. The Picket Range and beyond were still covered in clouds.

Looking east towards Mount Baker ski resort from the summit of Mount Baker — And the View into the North Cascades

Snowboarding Down the Roman Headwall to the Easton Glacier

Soon enough we felt like it was time to get moving. It had been well over an we were sure that the snow had softened enough. Skiing across the summit cap we were soon over to the Roman Headwall. Below us was a 7,400 foot fall line run. Taking turns off of the summit camp the turns were still a bit firm. With each turn the snow was quickly improving. Before long we were taking the last runs before the roll over.

Taking ski turns off the summit of Mount Baker — Scott skiing off the summit of Mount Baker

Soon we were taking turns on the Roman Headwall in perfect corn. Though it was semi steep it would be some of the best turns of the trip. Making turns above the sea of clouds all we could see was a world of white. A few turns later we were past the Coleman Demming Col.

Skiing on the Roman Headwall towards the Easton Glacier from the summit of Mount Baker — Skiing down the Roman Headwall

Before long we were taking the last turns off the headwall. Below us was a world of crevasses that seemed like a maze. Knowing that it would be hard to navigate we decided to stay near our ascent track. Within 20 minutes we would be back at camp though it took us hours to climb.

Making turns on the Roman Headwall towards the Easton Glacier from the summit of Mount Baker — Making turns with the Demming Glacier below

Once we were near the Sherman Crater we needed to make a long traverse. Though we had gone off our main route before it was time to go back. With a mixture of skin tracks and boot pack it would be easy to find the snow bridges. If we wanted to take high speed turns it was a much safer route.

Following our tracks over to the Easton Glacier

Riding the Easton Glacier Back to Camp

Finally we were past all the main crevasses and able to open up on the Easton Glacier. Fortunately most of the clouds had blown away and we would have perfect visibility. Conditions were perfect from the headwall all the way to our base camp.

Making turns on the Easton Glacier from the summit of Mount Baker — Skiing back to camp

Soon enough we were back at our tent and packing our gear. By now we were starting to see snowmobile track but it was easy to find smooth snow. Throwing our gear in our packs it was time to get moving to the car. Before long we were making our final turns towards the car with heavy backpacks.

Looking up the Easton Glacier towards the summit of Mount Baker — Our tracks heading down with a snowmobile track going right through Scott’s line.

The Final Turns to the Railroad Grade Trail and our Car

Making our way down the lower Easton Glacier moraine there were snowmobiles everywhere. While it was great snow up high this wasn’t the case anymore. Occasionally while riding down sled drivers would rally by. Soon enough we were down at the flats and skinning back to the car.

Once below the Camp it looked like a ski resort that hadn’t gotten snow for days.

Arriving at the car we were happy with our camping trip. It had been a direct route to the summit of Mount Baker and great corn snow. The Easton Glacier route had much better fall line then the Coleman Demming route. Though there were a lot of snowmobiles we were still able to make some great turns.