Amar skiing towards the entrance to the Gib Chute
Snowboarding the Gib Chute in Mount Rainier National Park

The Gib Chute is one of those lines you look at while skinning up the Muir Snowfield. It is a steep line that just next to the Muir Shelter that runs almost 3000 feet at a steep and sustained pitch. It is actually the most direct route up the mountain but we were there to ski. Being the first weather window for the summit of Mount Rainier in April we decided to see how the skiing was.

Day 1 Heading up to Camp Muir

With a brief weather window on Rainier calling for a warm day without wind Amar and I made our way up to the Paradise Visitor Center. After signing in with the rangers we started skinning up the Muir Snowfield. It was a perfect day as the sky was clear and we had a great view of the surround mountains. The plan was to stay the night at the shelter and leave at 8 in the morning for the summit. We didn’t know exactly what we wanted to ski but we would leave our overnight gear at the shelter. This would limit our options to either the Ingraham Glacier of the Gib Chute.

Skinning up the Muir snowfield with the Tatoosh Range and Mount Adams in the background

Day 2 and an Attempt at the Summit

I woke up early in the morning to watch the sun crest over the eastern horizon from the Cowlitz Glacier. It was a quiet day in on the mountain as climbing season usually starts in late May.

Sunrise over the Cowlitz glacier
Sunrise over the Cowlitz Glacier

The view was stunning as I looked down at the mountains from 10,300 feet. The first rays of sun slowly crept down the slopes of the surrounding peaks as they woke up for the day.

Sunrise alpenglow over the Tatoosh range and Mt Saint Helens
Sunrise alpenglow over Wahpenayo Peak and Mt Saint Helens

At 8 a.m. we started pushing our way up the mountain as the winds were still. Making our way over to Cathedral Gap we were looking directly across at Little Tahoma and Whitman Crest in the distance.

Mt Tahoma from Cathedral Gap at 10700 ft
Mt Tahoma from Cathedral Gap at 10700 ft

Climbing up the Ingraham Glacier

After taking in the view is was time to start moving as we skinned on to the Ingraham Glacier. There was no tracks unlike summer where there is a beaten path. We would be setting our own trail up the mountain.

Amar skinning up the Ingraham direct route
Amar skinning up the Ingraham direct route

Skinning up it wasn’t long before we were above Little Tahoma and the Central Cascades were in view. From our vantage point we could see past Nelson Ridge and Mount Aix in the clear and windless sky.

Skinning up Ingraham glacier (photo by Amar)
Skinning up Ingraham glacier (photo by Amar)

Once getting onto the steep upper slopes we switched from skinning to boot packing as the snow was wind swept. A step at a time we made our way up the last 2,000 feet toward the summit crater.

At around 12’600 feet we switched over to crampons (photo by Amar)

Arriving at the Summit Crater

Soon enough we were on the flats on the crater and skinning again towards the true summit. In the distance Mount Adams and Mount Saint Helens rose out of what seemed like flat lands from 14,400 feet.

Skinning up to summit proper from the Crater (photo by Amar)
Skinning up to summit proper from the Crater (photo by Amar)

Before long we were standing on top of the true summit and celebrating an April climb. Our reward was an endless view of the North Cascades in the far distance and a summit shared between Amar and I.

Amar standing on the Summit

Looking to the wast we had a great view of the Crystal Mountain Backcountry. With it being such a nice day I thought of the thousands of people at the ski resort. I wondered how many people were looking towards Mount Rainier at that exact moment.

Looking East towards Crystal Mountain

Snowboarding off the Crater

It had taken us longer than we expected to make our way to the summit which had caused an issue. By now the sun was moving west and the Ingraham Glacier was now in the shade. Knowing that we were on a race against time we decided to head for the fastest way down. We would go for the Gib Chute which would be a 20 minute back to Camp Muir where are gear was. It was time to start heading down the mountain.

We decided to descend the Gib Chute a more direct line back to the Muir Shelter. Snowboarding in the Summit Crater
We decided to descend the Gib Chute a more direct line back to the Muir Shelter. Snowboarding in the Summit Crater

Heading Towards the Gib Chute

As we started riding down the upper slopes were already starting to shade up. We were in a race against time and soon the mountain would be a sheet of ice. Making our way down cautiously we were still able to get good edge hold as it hadn’t firmed up completely yet.

Snowboarding next to a Serac on the Nisqually Glacier (photo by Amar)
Snowboarding next to a Serac on the Nisqually Glacier (photo by Amar)

Skiing down towards the Gib Chute we had a stunning view of the east side of the mountain. This was the area I had been focusing my attention of for years. I could have just sat there for hours but this wasn’t the time for it. We were on a race against the snow conditions and the last thing I wanted was to sleep on the upper mountain.

Amar skiing with Tahoma in the Background heading towards the Gib Chute
Looking down on Little Tahoma, Ohanapecosh, Cowlitz Chimneys, Tamanos Mountain and the terrain from Paradise to Crystal Mountain.

Fortunately Amar was a bit more familiar with the area as we kept moving closer to the Gib Chute a turn at a time. The terrain below just seemed to roll off into thin air as we kept a low angle traverse making our way towards the entrance.

Amar skiing towards the entrance to the Gib Chute
Amar skiing towards the entrance to the Gib Chute

Arriving at the Gib Chute

Finally we were standing at the top of the Gib Chute and looking down the steep terrain below us from 12,650. With 2,300 feet separating us from the Muir Shelter and our camping gear we would ride down the line in firm conditions.

Looking down the Gib Chute (photo by Amar)
Looking down the Gib Chute (photo by Amar)

The upper section of the Gib Chute was solid ice with no room for error, We would have to be careful going down the top and steepest section before the angle would let up a bit. With my board on its toe side edge I careful puled out my ice axe in cause I had to self arrest as I didn’t want to slide all the way down to the Nisqually Glacier.

Amar Skiing the Gib chute
Amar Skiing the Gib chute

I watched Amar go down the Gib Chute from my vantage point watching to see if conditions improved. From what I could tell it was solid on the upper section but seemed to soften up below. With that in mind I carefully made my way through the crux prepared to self arrest at any second.

Snowboarding down the Gib Chute
Snowboarding in the Gib Chute (photo by Amar)

Soon enough we had made it to the bottom and I had a huge sigh of relief. I had dreamed of riding the Gib Chute for many years but not in those conditions. I was just happy to be back on mellow slopes and about ready to be back at Camp Muir.

A moment of rest after snowboarding the Gib Chute
Looking back up the Gib chute (photo by Amar)

Heading Back to Camp Muir from the Gib Chute

We made it back as the last bit of light was over the Cascades. 30 minutes later it would be dark and we were back at the Muir Shelter in the warmth of our camping gear. While the day had not turned out exactly how we had planned it was still a great experience non the less.

Skinning back to Camp Muir from the Gib Chute
Heading back to the Muir shelter with the Sun setting in the Background

Day 3 and the Exit to Paradise Visitor Center

After the previous day we were in no rush as we woke up after sunrise. The only thing standing between us and the car was a run down the Muir Snowfield. Knowing it would take a few hours for the snow to soften up we waited until noon before packing up. Soon we were off taking mellow turns back to the car below.

Riding back down the Muir Snowfield with the Gib Chute in the distance
Riding back down the Muir Snowfield with the Gib Chute behind me

Back at the Paradise Visitor Center we packed all of our gear into the car. It had been a wild trip but we were able to have summited in April and I rode a new line. It would be a month before the real volcano season would begin but we had already started it with a bang. With Amar’s knowledge of the terrain it made the stress level far lower than it could have been.

Thank you for reading this trip riding the Gib Chute. If you want to see more ski tours within Mount Rainier Backcountry check out this link.